Kyoto, just for one day

After a long day of travel Saturday I got to the hotel showered, ate (Tebasaki, a local dish of spicy fried chicken and sinus clearingly good) and went to bed. Yesterday I had a couple of hours of work to get done, but aside from that I got to play tourist.

I looked at a map, checked the train timetable and was soon bound for Kyoto. I’ve been to Kyoto before, but that was sometime in the early 90’s. Relative to the 1200 year history of the town it’s not long, however this is Japan and nothing stands still for long.

It’s no secret that I really enjoy Japan, its got a very interesting history, ranging from almost total isolation to controlling a significant part of Asia and most of the western Pacific (abet briefly). It’s a country of interesting contrasts, full of tradition and the old trying to stay relevant with the constant renewal that goes on.

The short version is that Kyoto was the home of the emperor from 784 to 1869. There were times when the influence of the imperial family waned, but for a majority of that time the country was ruled from Kyoto. The city was largely spared during the war and many of the imperial palaces and castles are still (relatively) intact. The history of the city is fascinating and really deserves more time than I could devote to it in just one day.

It was a cold morning, but the skies were clear and the sun was out as I emerged from the subway into the park around the Imperial Palace. While entry to the palace itself needs a little more prior planning than I’d put into this trip, the gardens surrounding the palace are open to all.

The Palace is still run by the Imperial Household and has a role in some of the events around the investiture of a new emperor. The grounds are immaculately kept and make for a great place to wander on crisp morning.

It’s about a half hour walk from the palace grounds to the Nijo Jo Castle. After spending the previous day sitting on an airplane, the exercise was welcome. When you think of the stereotypical Japanese castle, Nijo Jo is exactly what you are envisaging. It’s big, the walls high and the moat formidable, but the Ninomaru Palace in the center of these defenses is wonderful to walk through.

As you enter the palace itself you have to take off your shoes and put on a pair of slippers that come in one size for me, too small. But it’s so worth it, the palace is impressive and does a good job in showing how the Shoguns lived and the power they held. At times this power was greater than the emperor and castles like this were built in an attempt to solidify the power. The history of Kyoto is rich and I need to go book shopping when I get back home.

From Nijo Jo I wandered to Ryoan-Ji. It’s a temple that dates back to the 14^th century and contains the rather well known garden where 15 rocks are carefully places among a sea of sand. It’s absolutely stunning close up. In December there are not many tourists and the place was quiet. The atmosphere is very serene and the effect of the garden is very difficult to describe, it is a wonderful place to sit and contemplate. It really is a unique setting that I spent a surprising amount of time in. It’s a really special place.

Final stop of my day was perhaps the ultimate contrast to a quiet meditative garden, it’s the city market in Nishiki Street. Any food you could ever want can be found here. Tiny dried fish (and taste better than they look), strange fruit, beautifully marbled Kobe Beef and octopus fried and presented on a stick to eat were all present, The street is narrow, only a few feet in places and teaming with people (some of who were enjoying the octopus on a stick) both looking and buying.

This really is an incredible city that gives a brief taste of what Japan is about. There is a rich and deep history that is in stark contrast with modern buildings like the immense train station. It’s a fascinating city, and I wish I had more time to spend here.

I’m working hard this week in Japan, there is a lot to accomplish and it’s going to be tough to get everything done. This trip to Kyoto, even if it is just for a day makes it all worth while.